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©2003-2007
CreatureScape
ISSN:
1546-6140


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

Re-Animator:  Reviving a Pre-paint from the Dead

by Jim Bertges

Have you ever looked at one of those pre-painted figures and said to yourself, “I could do a better paint job than that”?

I know you have.  However it can be a little intimidating to spend up to a hundred dollars or in some cases much more to purchase a pre-paint and then decide to re-paint it.  Well I’m here to tell you it’s OK!  That’s right, you are a better painter than anyone slaving away slapping paint on an assembly line of figures.  For them it’s just a job--for you it’s a passion.  So come along and I’ll show you what to do to transform that statue or bust with the lackluster paint job into a piece to be proud of.

First you’ve got to have some pre-painted statue on hand. If you don’t have one, go ahead and order something you like and we’ll get started while you await delivery.  I’m working on two pieces from X-Plus:  a 1/3 scale resin Frankenstein bank and a 1/6 scale Son of Frankenstein bust. Both are pretty nice sculptures, but as you can see from the before photos, their paint jobs need…..something (see below).

The first step in this process is to get to the sculpture under all that paint. Now, you may well ask, “What if I just touch up the existing paint?” Sure, you can do that, but you’d be surprised at what you may discover after stripping off the factory paint.  Because the factory paint is applied thickly and quickly, a lot of detail can be lost. After stripping you may well find details in the sculpture you never noticed before.

My stripper of choice (insert your own favorite stripper joke here) is Easy Off (now that I think of it, that could well be a stripper’s name) Oven Cleaner. Wearing protective gloves I applied a heavy coat of Easy Off to each piece and sealed them in plastic bags overnight. The following day, once again donning my protective gloves and some protective eye wear as well, I grabbed my trusty toothbrush (preferably an old one, not one you plan on using to clean your pearly whites with ever again), removed the busts from their plastic and scrubbed off as much of the paint as I could under some running water. Some bits were a little more stubborn than others, so I moistened a rag with lacquer thinner and removed them easily with a bit of rubbing.

Once the paint was off, I noticed two things; first, the paint had stained the resin in some places (which really didn’t matter) and second that these were pretty nice sculptures.  I did have one quibble with the Son of Frankenstein bust; the nose was way too narrow and pinched looking.  I remedied that by widening it out a bit with some Aves, making it look a bit more Karloffian (see above).

After giving both busts a coat of white primer, I decided to take two different approaches in painting them.  For the larger bust I broke out the old Iwata and for the smaller bust it was craft paints and hand brushing.  Of course, that was after I masked off the appropriate areas and sprayed bases and clothing with Krylon flat black.

The airbrushing went rather quickly. I set up a variety of transparent paints from Createx and Medea and laid them down one after the other with very minimal cleaning of the airbrush in between colors. I started with a transparent Violet, followed by a transparent Light Green. Both those colors were applied in wavy patterns to produce a mottled look. Over that, I applied a mixture of Createx transparent flesh tone with just a few drops of transparent Sienna and a single drop of transparent Violet. This was also applied in a random wavy pattern, but with more coverage than the other two colors.

After that I did a little shading in the deeper areas with transparent Sienna.  I used only lighter, transparent colors for this initial step, because I wanted to keep the pale, undead look of the Monster’s flesh (right).  When the airbrushing was done, I broke out the oils for some detailing and further shading.  I still kept things on the light side, but I wanted to bring out some of the facial lines and the heavy shading around the Monster’s eyes (below left). I used Raw Sienna lightened with white and some Flesh Tint.  Finally, to push back some of the purplish shade of the Monster’s skin tone, I ground up some pale yellow and light brown pastel chalks and gave him a light dusting (below right).

The Monster’s hair was straight black, right out of the bottle.  After a little dark gray drybrushing on his jacket and shirt, I was ready to finish off the Monster’s eyes.  Instead of the standard warm gray for the whites of his eyes, I opted for a pale yellow just to be different. I used two different shades of brown watercolors to get the basic eye color, Burnt Umber for the outline and Sienna for the interior of the iris. I also blended in some thin lines of yellow and green for some variety (below). My pupil placement gave the Monster a sad, downcast look which I liked.  A dash of Future to gloss up the eyes and this fellow was just about done.

The smaller bust went much more quickly. His furry vest was basecoated in Createx Transparent Iron Oxide to give it a reddish cast. I selected several light colors for his flesh tones, but included that same Iron Oxide for shading (below left). Using a stippling technique, I started with the dark colors in the deeper areas of his face and hands, then followed up with increasingly lighter shades of flesh tones with just a hint of green (below right). The stippling is all done while the paint is still wet which gives a more realistic blending to the colors. When the basic flesh colors had dried, I overcoated all the flesh areas with very pale green oil paint which was rubbed off long before it had a chance to dry. This left the skin looking pale and smooth with just a hint of green.

I made a light wash of Raw Sienna oils and used it in select areas such as around the eyes, the back of his hand and in several facial details. Eyes got basically the same treatment as the eyes on the larger bust, but on a much smaller scale.  All that remained was a little detailing on the base and a spray of Dullcote.
Now, I hope that by just looking at the before and after photos of these two pieces you can see the improvements that can be made with just a little effort. My advice would be to start out on a piece that wasn’t too expensive and try your hand at re-doing a factory paint job. After all, factory paint is just that, “factory paint” and by its nature will never live up to the job you can do if you just invest a little time and effort.

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©2003-2007 CreatureScape ISSN: 1546-6140