Mummy Dearest!
Sometimes a simple kit is exactly what one needs to awaken the desire to create monsters--for modeling newbies or seasoned veterans who have been too wrapped up in other things. Well then, we offer you not just the following article but the model itself. To quote Ardeth Bey, "Look and wonder . . ."
For all the brilliance of Karloff's Frankenstein monster, it was his performance as Imhotep / Ardeth Bey that first demonstrated the depth of his talents to most moviegoers. The more I watch this film the more remarkable it reveals itself to be. And more than seventy years after it first appeared, this movie still has one of the most chilling scenes in film history--the awakening of The Mummy, which is the inspiration for this wonderful kit from Geometric Designs.
Confused about a term used in this article?
Go to the
model builder's dictionary.
This kit has a lot of virtues. Besides being a great likeness, it is also a one piece bust that comes with a rod and disc for mounting the finished product as you can see in the photo to the right. It is also very simple to do and a great way to start in the hobby of monster making and you do the whole thing in an afternoon.
What you will need: You really only need about $10-30 worth of supplies (depending on how much you want to spend) to do this kit well. To the right is a brief list of the basics, all of which you can find at your local hobby store, craft store or even Wal-Mart.
In addition to the list, you will need clean water to clean your brushes, a few rags, good lighting and maybe some newspaper to protect your table top. Beer is optional.
Step 1: Clean the model with dishwashing soap, wipe it off and allow it to dry. You can set it out in the sun or use a blow dryer to speed this along. This is an important step--this removes oils and residues which will retard the paint.
- A pack of craft brushes.
- 3 shades of gray or sand colored acrylic
(water soluble) craft paint depending on your color preference.
- A hobby knife with a pack of #11 blades.
- Gray spray can primer. Avoid
KRYLON--the Wal-Mart brand works great and is the cheapest.
- Modeling putty. You can use a two
part putty like Magic Sculpt (about $6.00) or Testor's makes some putty in
little white and gray tubes for about $1.50. You will have to drop
by a craft or hobby store for these, probably.
- Testor's Dulcote. This is a spray sealer that will protect the kit and is specifically designed to make the models appear realistic when complete.
- A small tube of dark gray oil paint and a
little paint thinner.
- (You can use your acrylics as well--see below).
Step 2: Using a hobby knife and maybe a little fine grit sand paper, remove all the obvious flash (excess resin flake) and put putty in any air holes you might see. There are also mold lines--where the mold leaves a small ridge, and you can clean it off with the knife.
Step 3: Prime the kit. Priming is important--it will make the paint stick better and make colors look more natural.
I attach my kits to a small flat board with a screw or tape. This allows me to turn the kit at different angles and prime and paint it without touching the drying paint (see right photo). I find that the cheap stuff works fine and I like light gray as a neutral base. The primer should be dry in about 30 min to an hour depending on humidity and air temperature.
Step 4: Once you have the kit primed, it will reveal places that still need trimming or putty. This is normal. The picture to the left shows how a hobby knife is used to scrape away tiny excess resin not visible before priming. Also, you may find a few holes needing to be filled. Just dap a little putty on them and re-prime when you are done (you don't have to wait for the putty to dry because it will harden beneath the primer.)
Step 5: Okay, lets paint. The mummy could be done in sand colors (it looks good that way), but I am going to do it in "gray scale," which reflects the black and white texture of the film as well as offers a viable mummy option . . . I mean he is dead, afterall.
You need three shades of gray or sand. The wrappings on the body should be the darkest color and the face should be the medium color. If you watch the movie, the face is a little lighter than the wraps.
Allow the base coat to dry and then spray it with Testor's Dulcote to seal the first layer. It stinks, so spray it outside--but allow it to DRY INSIDE. Overexposure to sunlight while drying will turn the Dulcote yellow.
Step 6: Drybrush the kit with light gray. What is dry brushing? basically you dip the paint brush about half way in the paint and pull as much paint as you can off will a rag or paper towel. When you think you have got most of it, pull the brush gently over the surface in quick motions. You can see in the picture below left that a broad, flat brush works great. To the right, the details are now clear and you can seal the kit with Dulcote again. And you might be happy right there, but one more step will bring depth to the kit.
Step 7: Oil wash (or acrylic wash) the kit. I am using an oil wash of dark gray oil (tube) paint mixed with mineral spirits at about 1 part paint and 10 parts thinner. You can also use a dark gray (probably darker than the body color) acrylic or water based mixture, but I like the effect of oils.
To the right, you can see that the wash is applied liberally, but after it seeps into the crevices, you can wipe it off with a clean rag (below). Don't use paper towels here or you'll have fibers all over the kit.
Step 8: To finish the model, you can mount it on the post, paint the provided disc and insert the model to be displayed (a little super glue helps). Or . . . you can do what I did. I found these great drink coasters at Pier One. Just turn one upside down and drill a hole in it and you have a nice looking wooden stand!
Wrap it up, I'll take it!
So you want to raise the dead, just in time for Halloween, eh. Okay. That can be arranged.
Normally, this kit sells for $55 plus $6.00 shipping and handling in the USA. However, through the combined forces of Count Gore, Geometric and CreatureScape, we can offer it to you for just $45 and FREE shipping in the USA.
You can either use the Paypal link below . . .
If you are in Canada, Mexico or overseas, you can click here for details on ordering. If you have any questions, just email me at editor@creaturescape.com.
The Rules:
- Actually PRACTICE your hobby. Just do it because it makes you happy and don't worry about it. Geeze . . .
- But DON'T BUY RECASTS. Artists need support to keep doing it and recasts are typically crappy anyway.
- If you want to use some of our images, cool by me . . . just credit the source as www.creaturescape.com
- If you want to link to us, knock yourself out. Use our banner if you like and contact us so we can return the favor.
- If you find an error, problem, bad link or foolish statement, let us know, but don't be a butthead.
- Support our sponsors because that is how we stay afloat.
- Support horror hosts at www.horrorhosts.com by buying their products
- Support rockabilly radio at www.rockabillyradio.net by giving them money
- Fight the power, wash behind your ears and for heaven sake, if you are surfing the web right now, take a minute to think about how cool monster models are and go immediately to our sale page and buy a kit!
© 2007 CreatureScape, All Rights Reserved Callahan