5 Tips for Building Better Kaiju

Bill "Monster" Jones is one of the most recognized monster modelers in the world, especially when it comes to kaiju.  Wouldn't you like to know how he does it?  Well . . . . read on, my friends!

For this kaiju special issue, Sean has asked me to discuss five ways to build a better kaiju. I  want to cover some points that can take your modeling experience
just a bit over the edge to create a unique kaiju.  Here is the list:

Here is a bit of general advice first.  Reading all you can in model mags and websites about the tips and tricks can really add up.  Some of these tips I have read and some of the tricks I just made up . . . one thing kinda led to another.  Trial and many errors.

Lighting Effects

In all kaiju movies, the thing that we love is all the flash and dash of a monster's destructive power. Nothing like a electro-gravity beam or radioactive breath to get your attention.  I have pondered on this issue for many years and put the question out to my fellow modelers many times for answers, "how can you get a good Godzilla breath?"

There were many ways, but one I have found to look great evolved after many tries.

I knew that Godzilla's breath was very airy and light . . . so I tried cotton and finally discovered that wonderful stretchy spider web material that is so easy to get around Halloween.  After a few unsuccessful attempts at getting this stuff thin enough and stiff enough to support the blast, I realized that covering a long clear drinking straw with Modge Podge glue (which dries flat) was great for affixing the cotton webbing.  I pulled long thin segments of the webbing and placed them stretched out on the glue covered straw.

This takes a couple of applications, but not too thick...just enough to cover it so you cannot see that it is a soda straw. When dried, I pulled the loose webbing as straight as I could and sprayed hair spray to freeze the webbing in place. You will have to sculpt & comb the webbing into a nice breath ray pattern and dry with hairdryer which also blows webbing into place. You will also want to tighten up the breath pattern as it gets closer to Godzilla's mouth and wider on the other end.

Another cool effect is the use of Electroluminescent Wire.  This is great stuff--only $12 for unit with replaceable AA batteries and 4 feet of lighted neon that is bendable!  The two way on/off switch allows constant neon light or strobing neon . . . great for atomic breath!

I insert the neon wire from the bottom of the base into the straw and up to Godzilla's mouth. You can also use a plume of smoke/webbing material pulled apart lightly on the ground base.

I also use the yellow neon on my Ghidrah models . . . the strobe effect is great for electro-gravity beams!

Explosions

Explosions and kaiju go hand in hand, so I use a technique I read in another figure model magazine article, AFM's "Making the Scene" with Anthony Mesta.  He used the foaming insulation material called "GOOD STUFF" which can be purchased at any hardware store.  (Always use latex or plastic gloves when using this stuff as it is sticky.  And, it can really ruin any nice clothes, so wear your painting clothes.)

Once you open a can and get it going, I suggest you might as well make several explosions all at the same time, because some simply will not turn out as good as others and trying to clean the nozzle is not fun. I say use the whole can. I make two kinds of explosions: the big puffy types of explosions of a gas tank and the long shooting across the sky versions.

This takes a little planning.  Using a piece of aluminum foil as a base, I spray it with cooking oil so the foam can set up without sticking to the foil--use a big piece.  I work outside with this stuff as it can be messy and sometimes uncontrollable. 

 

For the shooting type explosions, I build some small wire armatures . . . like tree branches . . . then stick the bases of the tree branches into a block of Styrofoam so I can handle them easily.  Then I spray "Good Stuff" very carefully onto the wire.  This takes a learning curve and, for me , it is a hit or miss. I  get a lot of duds before I get a good one, as sometimes the Good Stuff drips off the armature before it cures, so I make many armatures just in case.  It might be a good idea to use many strands of a thin wire to help the Good Stuff grip properly to the armature trees. 

This is why I say use the whole can during one session.

On the the big blooming explosions it is easier.  Nozzle down, spray a good size blob.  Let it rise a little bit and then add another smaller blob on top in the middle of the first to make it look like a real explosion. I like the look of several billows from the main one.  If you wanna have a refinery tank or huge gas tank exploding, I recommend gluing pieces of the tank around the billowing explosion. You can also insert pieces into the billow.  Also, it is easy to carve on, since it dries to a hard foam.

After these dry and I pick the best ones, it is time to paint.  I basecoat the the explosions white, then a bright light yellow.  Then a glossy orange over the tops and finally mist black over the very tops.

And, for quick and easy explosion effects I use the stretchy cotton web material discussed above like a billowy cloud around the object exploding.

Base Extras

Giant monsters on a base really shape up with the help of an object close to scale that shows  just how big they are. Since most of these monsters are Japanese, I like Green Max's N scale line of Japanese styled buildings. XO Facto used to carry these, but now I find them on eBay mostly.  Check under N scale railroad accessories.  Also, Doyoshu makes a line of styrene Japanese castles that work really well too.  You can't beat those pagoda roofs!  By the way, sometimes I just use a part of the castle building.

In general, the railroad section of your local hobby shop is a goldmine for base accessories and landscaping supplies too.  Walters makes some very good electro transmission towers, great for kaiju!   But check eBay too for some great deals too.  I got a huge lot of landscaping supplies at a good price that will last for years from someone who no longer did model railroading.

Reposing

Sometimes a phenomenal kaiju sculpt has uber-detail, but the pose of monster is rather . . . well . . . stiff.  The Billiken kits can be like this.  Sometimes just closing the lower jaw can add some variety.  One of my favorite things to do is the Godzilla head tilt.  You know, that look that has all the attitude of a scorned wife on the Jerry Springer show.  This is very easy on a vinyl kit, but does involve cutting on your precious kit. Be fearless!!

On vinyl kits, I cut out crescent shaped slices, heat with a hairdryer and try to stitch the remaining pieces together with superglue. Start with small cuts and go larger as needed.  On resin kits, I completely saw off the head and repose as wanted and fill in the area with epoxy putty and re-sculpt or use a texture stamp--very easy to do.  I have reposed the Polar Lights big Godzilla this way too.  I used my jeweler saw for styrene.  It worked great! These techniques will give you a one-of-a-kind piece with that cool kaiju attitude!

Fur

I have added fur to many King Kongs and to Ghidrah neck collars. I start with a woven strand of brown, reddish brown or dark brown Doll hair purchased at a craft store that has doll supplies. Have a pair of sharp scissors handy.  

Over a large bowl, I scissor cut stubble length segments (three day beard) until I have a good size ball of cut fur. I then repeat using another color to vary the fur pattern. Sometimes I will also add some cut black or gray to the mix for variation. Using my fingertips, I separate the little clumps of fur into a more uniform color and texture. I transfer my big furball in a Ziploc bag for storage.

On a small part of the model, apply a nice coat of Modge Podge white glue.   Note: get the kind that dries FLAT. Work in segments, not the whole model, as it is easier.

Once the area you want is furred, it may seem like Kong is wearing a puffy fur coat. Don't worry. After the glue thoroughly dries, remove excess fur with fingers or an old toothbrush until it looks realistic. You can also do a final setting with a light coat of Testors Dulcote.

For fur around Ghidrah's necks, I cut longer strands of brown doll hair.  Then I attach the base of long hairs to piece of masking tape and fold it over.  Then I take the Ghidrah base gold color and spray the hairs with the paint.

I attach the fur to the model the same way with the Modge Podge glue and hold in place with rubber bands.

The cool thing with kaiju characters is that there are endless possibilities for customizing. Whether they are in outer space, the south pole, a volcano, lush jungle or city streets, the dynamic nature of kaiju films lends them to a lot of fun possibilities.

You can find more of Bill's amazing work at www.monsterjones.com

© CreatureScape 2006

Online ISSN:  1546-6140